On to my latest creation, the Sunki Pocket Dress by Figgy’s Patterns. For this pattern, Brooke and I picked two tones of blue corduroy, a dark blue for the body and sleeves with a lighter shade of blue (periwinkle) to accentuate the pockets. With regard to the type of material, this piece is more of a wintertime outfit, so the heavier fabric will work well. Sizing information is at the bottom of this post.
For this project I used my regular foot, my zipper foot and my overcast foot. I needed a regular zipper, interfacing, thread and scissors that was it.
As usual, take your time and layout your pattern. Cut your fabrics, and you are ready to begin sewing. Also, don’t forget to cut your interfacing. You will need to fuse a few pieces and then finish off the bottom edges.
The first step you will need to do for this pattern is build the pockets. This step has got to be the most technical aspect of the dress. Once you finish the pockets, the rest is all down hill. I have to say that, in general, the instructions are written very well, but there can be some parts that get tricky. The Pocket Construction is the tricky part.
The most challenging step here is to line up the edges of the pockets with the edges of the dress. I had to study the diagrams, read the notes, and reread the steps to see a clear picture of what needed to be done. Also, the side panels that are pictured seem to be curved while the actual panels that I cut had almost no curve at all. After looking at it for a little while, I just decided to manipulate the fabric until it followed the curved edge of the dress front.
Once you get beyond this step, the pocket starts to take shape. Just make sure you are happy with your work before you start trimming the seam allowances. A good portion of the pocket is finishing your edges and adding some top stitches.
Also, if you are like me and you do not own a serger, then you will be using your over-cast foot on your machine to finish all the edges including the pocket ones. This feature on a sewing machine is AWESOME!! Personally I love it as it works like a serger without cutting the fabric, and it gives a professionally finished look to your project. It does use a lot of thread but it is defiantly worth it.
Once the side panels are complete, you will move to the back part of the dress and install the zipper. I find this step very interesting as the instructions will tell you to install the zipper with the seams closed. First, you will baste stitch the zipper opening on the dress and then you will sew the zipper on it. By doing it this way, you will end up with a very well placed zipper. Also, the zipper will be very close to the seam edge and will look almost like a part of your fabric.
After adding the zipper, you have to add the facings to the dress. This step is straightforward enough. Then, you will stitch the dress front and back together and get ready to add the sleeves.
The sleeves have a few steps to follow. There are also markings on the pattern that will help you add some pleating/gathering. Add the sleeves by fitting the material to the openings in the dress, and you will be almost finished. Just take your time here, so you get it right.
A little hemming and you have a beautiful and fun dress. I could not wait to put it on my daughter and see how it looked on her. I hope you will try this pattern. It is challenging in places but won’t make you quit.
If you want more information about Figgy patterns read Brooke's Blog Preparing for Scirocco by Figgy.
Sew Happy!! And,I will see you in my next blog.
SIZING: Fabiana, Ivonia, and Donea all wear sizes 4T-5T in the store. I made the Sunki at size 4/5. If you are picking between 2 sizes definately go for the smaller size. I can't wait for Fabiana to wear this dress next year when it fits her better.